Litkovska Fall 2025: A Tailored Tale of Resilience

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The ongoing impact of the war in her homeland of Ukraine continued to underpin Lilia Litkovska’s creations. She took a trip to Mount Kilimanjaro with five friends, all soldiers and amputees with prosthetic limbs, forming the leitmotif for her fall collection. As such, the collection was peppered with military and outdoor references — black balaclavas to protect against the cold, a heavy sheerling aviator jacket. The backbone, however, remained her twists on masculine tailoring, reinterpreted for the feminine form with layered, bias-cut silks and specific pleats that gave a sensual slant to the silhouette. A curly shearling vest with a leather lining was worn over a twist-fronted, bias-cut dress in ecru silk with matching pants underneath. The collection was largely done in shades of ecru, black and gray this season, with exceptions including a three-piece coat suit in a brown wool with vivid red pinstripes. At the rear of the coat, the fabric was pleated into a central spiral structure, representing the infinity symbol. You May Also Like Styled on the shoulders like ruffles were folded newspapers Litkovska has collected since the start of the war in her country. “What does Elon Musk really want?” read one headline, she pointed out. She also folded newspapers to create accessories for the collection, a metaphor for the quest for truth and peace, she said. She staged her presentation in the empty Paul Bert Serpette flea market, closed on a Wednesday, dreaming that one day her creations, like those sold in those same alleyways at the weekends, will be part of design history.

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